After an overnight stay in the huge and empty bay in Pasman next to Muntan island we headed on up to Ugljan island for a MdR reunion. We were able to sail most of the way, starting off gently downwind at 3kts playing around with the genny and staysail winged out either side. Just when we thought we would have to give up as the wind had dropped to nothing, it filled in from the west and Emerald was doing 5kt with just the genny. Ah what a difference a clean bottom makes!
Our destination was the anchorage next to Olive Island marina at Sutomiscica. We were surprised to find the only boats there were our 3 friends – in fact we’d hardly seen any other boats all day. Catching up over good food and plenty of wine was fun as well as the Great Ugljan Boules Tournament of 2016 – which the ladies team won by a mile! We rounded it off with music on Emerald with Colin, Branko and Nick entertaining us from the back deck and a reunion of the Ukulele Girls.
Bukasin, Dugi Otok and the James Bond Baddie Lair
From there we motored over to Dugi Otok and what would be our furthest point north. We’d wanting to have a look in a submarine bunker and had a choice of two on either side of Dumboka. We chose the south side to suit the wind direction, anchoring off the shore rather than tying up in the bunker.
Dinghying into the James Bond baddie lair allowed us to see just how clear the water was in the tunnel as well as setting off plenty of bats swooping and squeaking over our heads. Shoals of tiny fish darted about in the beautiful relections in the clear water below.
We parked up the dinghy to explore on foot and found a side tunnel, it was pitch black inside and a little bit spooky as our torch decided it needed new batteries.
The anchorage wasn’t that good (thin sand over rock) and the afternoon winds were ideal for crossing back over to Ugljan and a night in the anchorage of Prtljug.
Prtljug on Ugljan. My favourite place name in Croatia. If ever there was a case for the Vowel Police to be called. We’ve been advised how to say it but we just can’t get it right so go back to saying it phonetically.
On the south shore of the bay is a collection of little shacks and houses that are very pretty. We also watched a fisherman bringing in his catch – two enormous wall eyed tuna. One was over 2m long, the other a little bit smaller but it still look two people to lift it. And his boat wasn’t even that big.
Next morning we headed on south, not too far, to the anchorage of Lamljana, a huge inlet on the south west of Ugljan. We had great winds for sailing down which continued to gust down the head of the valley into the anchorage, but the holding was fantastic and there was a lot of space for Emerald to dance around in the gusts.
We went off for an explore and found a signpost for a walking trail which gave us a panoramic view down to Emerald. The sun was on it’s way down so tomorrow was set for a full explore along the track.
Next morning we retraced our steps along the track which starts off as a wide, easy gravel surface. Just after where we’d stopped last night it becomes a narrow footpath, winding between trees and making use of the wide dry stone walls. The path markings really needed a repaint and we did loose the path at one point, mistakenly continuing along the top of a wall and having to battle our way past the knee height, super scratchy bushes that grow so well in Croatia. We did see a creature too, darting off into the trees; bigger than a rabbit, smaller than a deer, we will just have to think of it as a UWC (Unidentified Wild Creature). We soon rejoined the proper path again and not long after it widened back into a forest track before descending by road into Kukljica.
Fortified with coffee and cakes (only 80kn for a huge slice of cake!) we completed the circuit by walking back along the seashore path. After passing through a busy campground the path entered a refreshingly cool forest but we ended up being directed up to the road rather than it continuing along the sea as the map showed. The road was busy and not so nice for walking; Colin spotted a track in the woods and a scramble through the undergrowth took us to it. Much more pleasant. After that we were back on a concrete path along the shore and the sunbathers were back in force.
By the time we arrived in Kali it was well past lunch and a cute little cafe with bargain priced fish dishes and views of the fishing boats replenished our waning reserves. It was so good it was hard to leave but thunder clouds were gathering so we reluctantly declined a third round of drinks to walk the one mile back and check on Emerald. When we got back the storm was no closer and with the beach bar at the head of the bay calling to us for just one more, we gave in to temptation and rounded off a great day with cold beer watching over Emerald. The storm missed us too.
So now we have pointed the bows south. It would have been great to see a few more places further north but the time felt right for us to turn around. Lots of places still to see on our route to Crete.
A massive, shallow bay tucked up between Pasman island and three small islands called Muntan, Mali Duzac and Veli Duzac. Only three other boats whilst we were there.
A track runs along the shore; you can walk to Pasman town where there was a tourist office, grocery shop and a couple of bars and restaurants.
Anchorage next to Olive Bay Marina, Sutomiscica, Ugljan
Good holding next to the marina; there were only 4 boats on our first night, on the second there were a few more as boats heading back for change over day.
Small shop in the village, plus a wonderful boules court! Showers on the north shore too.
A 40 minute walk to the south takes you to Preko where there is a Konzum and a ferry to Zadar.
21st July: Pasman to Sutomiscica, 16nm travelled (8nm sailed)
Anchored in 7m in position 44 05.84’N 15 10.07’E
Uvala Bukasin, Dugi Otok
On the south side of Dumboka, anchored close into shore in 8m. Holding wasn’t great in a thin layer of sand and lots of rocks.Depths shelved steeply off the shore.
Possible to tie up alongside in the outer section of the submarine pen.
No shops, just a couple of houses and a tiny harbour for little boats.
23rd July: Ugljan to Dugi Otok, 13nm travelled
Anchored in 9m in position 44 06.82’N 14 56.63’E
A peaceful, wild spot. Just a few houses on the shore.
23rd July: Bukasin to Prtljug, 7nm travelled (4nm sailed)
Anchored in 6m in position 44 06.35’N 15 06.82’E
Uvala Lamljana Mala, Ugljan
A long, tapering bay with sand and good anchoring depths. Holding was fantastic and there was plenty of space.
A few houses along the shore, no shop that we found. A beach bar, volleyball pitch and boules court behind the not very sandy beach.
A mile up the road at the head of the bay brings you to Kali where there is a small Tommy supermarket, post office, general stores and a chandlery.
24th July: Prtljug to Lamljana, 9nm travelled (7nm sailed)
Anchored in 5m in position 44 02.79’N 15 12.89’E